RIGHT OF WAY
The surfer closest to the peak of the wave has the right of way. Also the surfer furthest out or first to his feet has the right to be on the wave. In all of these cases other surfers will have to let the wave pass. Learn these ‘rules’ and act accordingly.
DO NOT DROP IN
Dropping in is the act of stealing someone’s wave described at point 1. By doing it you will create a dangerous situation for you and the other surfers. Collision might occur, bones and boards can break. It is a bad idea and everyone will be annoyed.
Do not paddle straight to the line up where the waves are breaking and people are surfing. It is wiser and safer to paddle through a channel where there are less chances of a run in. If you see a surfer coming towards … Read the rest
No single board works well for all conditions. Instead, most surfers will develop a set of boards that work well in their area. Some start with traditional ocean boards, but it’s not an easy way to start. It’ll be easier to learn if you start with something with more volume and a larger planing area than most ocean shortboards, and less length than the long soft top boards that most ocean surfers start out on so you can fit onto the wave. Look for soft top boards with significant rocker.
Save fiberglass boards for when you have your feet under you a little better, and don’t drive your board into the rocks quite so often.
Helmets are nearly mandatory at just about every river wave. Look for something whitewater specific rather than a bike or climbing helmet.
Wearing a leash is th eeasiest way to get killed … Read the rest
Paddling for a wave is all about timing. Always stay in front of the wave, so position yourself correctly and start paddling early. Remember the faster the wave, the faster you need to paddle.
POSITION ON BOARD
Find the sweet spot on your board. Don’t lie to far back so the nose will lift up and push water. If you position yourself too far forward your board will nose dive into the water.
Try not to lean too far to the left or right, stay balanced. Keep your board flat on the water.
DON’T USE TWO ARMS
When paddling you need a constant planing speed. If you paddle with both arms you will momentarily lose momentum and speed. When you double-paddle you will jerk forward and then slow down. The ideal surf paddling technique resembles a freestyle swimming stroke.
When paddling make sure you don’t tense up … Read the rest
The first is the spring suit which has short legs and short arms and is used to keep the upper body warm and has a thickness of materials of about 2mm. Short Johns are like spring suits but without the sleeves and are also usually 2mm thick. Long Johns have full-length legs and are mostly about 2mm thick. Full Suits are self-explanatory, the most commonly used — especially in colder waters — whose thickness is determined by the temperature of the water the surfer usually finds himself in.
Another difference in surfing wet suits is that many have two layers of material and the area under the arms is thinner than the rest allowing for easier arm movements critical to performing well while surfing. Furthermore, it is common for surfers to add an additional spandex suit underneath their wetsuits if they venture into cooler waters.
Surfing wet suits need to … Read the rest